Saturday, July 19, 2014

THE COTTAGES OF T.E. LAWRENCE, THOMAS HARDY, THE CERNE GIANT AND LYTES CARY MANOR

WEDNESDAY MAY 14TH 2014

Morning
Another sunny morning greeted us as we left Corfe Castle. I had to stop to take a photograph of these steps on the main road. The plant is a type of campanula or bellflower and seems to grow with ease wherever it can find a crack.


Our first stop was at the cottage of T. E. Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia. Lawrence was born August 16th 1888 and from the age of eight lived in Oxford. In his early twenties he spent much time in the middle east becoming an expert in Arabian affairs which later resulted in him being assigned to the British Military Intelligence office in Cairo. It was here he helped King Faisal of Saudi Arabia lead a revolt against the Ottoman Turks in 1916. Returning to England in 1923 he joined the Royal Tanks Corps at Bovington Camp, Dorset. Desirous of a quiet bolt hole he found the small cottage at Clouds Hill and began his autobiographical book Seven Pillars of Wisdom, which he completed in 1927.




Money earned from the book went towards improvements at the cottage and to increasing his collection of George Brough motorcycles, of which he had, at various times, owned seven.


He entertained several of his literary friends here including, EM Forster and Robert Graves and was a great firend of Thomas Hardy whose cottage we will visit next.


On May 13th 1935, while out riding he came off his motorbike while trying to avoid two boys on bicycles. He never regained consciousness and died a few days later. He is buried in the churchyard at Moreton, several miles away. We visited the church, St Nicholas, which is known for its beautiful etched windows by LaurenceWhistler. They replaced the glass blown out by a bomb during the war. A group of hikers were sitting on the steps outside the church. They must have been taking the 3 mile hike though the countryside which passes by the point where the accident happened. There is a marker by the roadside.


It was a beautiful church inside, full of light. We walked around the church to view the unusual etchings.


Then a short walk to Lawrence's gravesite.


Our second cottage of the day was that of Thomas Hardy. From the car park we took the 15 minute walk, along the bridleway and through the woods, which brought us to a splendid view of the thatched cottage below. Maybe in need of new thatching or was it just the sun on the thatch.


The cottage was built by Thomas Hardy's grandfather, and Hardy was born here in 1840. Although he was educated as an architect his first love was writing, and he wrote poems and several books while living here including Under the Greenwood Tree and Far from the Madding Crowd.


The cottage-stye garden was a little disappointing. Maybe we were once again too early for the big show, although we were gong to see a glorious bluebell display as we left to go back to the car by the road.



The cob and thatch cottage is typical of the time as was the open hearth with settle. There have been few changes to the house since Hardy left. I became entranced by the many small windows we saw on this trip and all had vases of flowers.




It seemed to me a bright and cheerful place on this sunny morning but one of the poems that Hardy wrote gives a clear idea of his feelings about living here.

                                                        Concerning his Old Home
Mood I
I wish to see it never
That dismal place-
With cracks in its floor-
I would forget it ever.

Mood II
To see it once that sad
And memorial place-
Yes, just once more-
Should be faintly glad!

Mood III
To see it often again-
That friendly place
With its green low door-
I'm willing anywhen!

Mood IIII
I'll haunt it night and day-
That loveable place
With its flowers rich store
That drives regrets away!


The bluebells in the woods alongside the road were fabulous and reminded me on bluebonnets in Texas. Our next stop was to be near the town of Cerne Abbas to see the Cerne Giant. We stopped to photograph this row of early 16th century Tudor houses on Abbey Street in Cerne Abbas.


We arrived in the parking lot at the Cerne Giant and it seemed like the perfect spot to eat our rather late picnic lunch. ( I bought jars of pate in France).  Standing over 180' and proudly sporting his 36' manhood, the Cerne Giant is of unknown origin. Earthworkings around the area date back to the Iron Age but there is no mention of the giant prior to the mid 1700s. Cared for by the National Trust there is a popular hike up to the giant.

We didn't have time to take the hike but saw many tiny figures crossing the fields. We were next to visit the medieval manor house at Lytes Cary. We had been unable to visit two years ago due to it being closed on the day we were passing though. To visit this house and garden was the main reason we took the detour up from the coast.
Named for the original tenant family named Lytes and the nearby River Cary, Lytes Cary Manor was built between the 14th and 16th centuries. By 1900 the building had fallen into disrepair and the original gardens had suffered a decline. The property was purchased by Sir Walter Jenner who restored the hall leaving it to the National Trust in 1948.


We decided view the garden first but before we entered David couldn't resist climbing up on the horse mount.


We passed through the gate and found ourselves in the Apostle garden.


The Apostle garden with its magnificent topiary, planted in 1911 by Jenner, and with the dovecote in the distance.


There is a splendid view looking back at the house from the end of the walkway.

By the house there is a small chapel which was built in 1343.


And one of those delightful small windows in the lichen encrusted wall of the house, outside the chapel door.


We couldn't find a way into the rest of the garden and had to break the rules by going through this door in the wall for disabled access.


We found ourselves on the croquet lawn. The garden is laid out in the Art and Crafts style with rooms separated by tall hedges.
Croquet lawn
A series of garden rooms led one from another. This one the lavender garden.



There wasn't too much color in the herbaceous borders, another reminder that maybe we are a little early in the year.


There were few visitors, even though the day was fine. I felt overdressed and overheated and would have loved to have seated myself on the bench which offered this view between the hedges down the long walk. It was occupied.



We continued our walk around the estate until we reached the pleached lime walk which would take us back up to the house.


We entered the house into the great hall where a docent was waiting to answer any questions. We chatted with her for some time about the Lyte's Herbal, a copy of which was in a case on the table covered with a light excluding velvet cloth. She permitted me to take a photograph without flash. This first edition copy, from 1578, was an English translation, by Henry Lytes, of the French translation of the original 'Cruydboeck' by Flemish botanist Rembert Dodoens.



Looking down into the great hall.

We now left to find our B&B for the night, Church Barn Farm, Podimore, a working farm. Heather was busy helping with the milking when we arrived but quickly showed us to our room and made us feel at home bringing us tea and cake. Very welcome after our long day. I have to say that this is one of the nicest B&Bs we have ever stayed in. Absolutely first class.


Our bedroom

Sitting area

bathroom


Looking down into the dining room

We were able to walk to the Podymore Inn for dinner. Like to take your dog there? You can and they will even give him/her dinner!


We walked back to the B&B along the country lane, stopping to visit with the day-old calf in the field, before we retired to our room for a wonderful night's sleep. Next morning this delicious farm breakfast.



 I went out to take a quick photograph of the rock garden and we headed off for the day.


We are heading back down tot he coast today for some fossil hunting.

4 comments:

  1. What a fascinating post. How lucky you are to be able to travel as often as you do! And how great it is that you post these great pictures and comments so that those of us who cannot travel can do so vicariously.

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  2. Of all the wondrous sights you've shared here I'll admit the ones that stole my heart were the steps with bellflowers, the window with flower vase, and the B&B farm's rock garden. It is those more intimate glimpses that seem to grab and hold my attention which might explain my difficulties when faced with large garden swaths to design. I have small eyes! Hope you had good luck fossil hunting - searching out ammonites perhaps?

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  3. Great trip! When I visited Hardy's cottage in the early 90's the grumpy and dour owner led us through the house in complete silence--would not answer any questions, and was thrilled to shoo us all out as quickly as possible. It was actually quite funny. Another thing about the UK your B&B reminded me of is that the bathtubs are great--you can soak in water up to your chin without having to compress yourself in any way--why are American bathtubs so small?

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  4. Your trips to England always make me so jealous.

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